Wasp, hornet or yellowjacket nest: leave it, remove it, or hire a pro?

Updated November 10, 2026 · KeystoneProGuide editorial team

Do you need to do anything about a wasp nest?

Not always. Penn State Extension's guide to paper wasps, yellowjackets and other stinging insects starts by asking whether there is a nest at all. Wasps and bees may be visiting your yard for food or water while their nest is far away. Foraging wasps and yellowjackets, it says, are usually not defensive and are more of a nuisance than a hazard, though they will sting if trapped or crushed against the skin.

For foraging insects, Penn State's advice is to remove the attraction: keep food and food waste tightly covered at picnics and barbecues, clean up spills, and, in hot dry weather, remember they are drawn to pools, bird feeders and leaking sprinklers. It says yellowjacket traps can reduce numbers somewhat but are unlikely to solve the problem.

When is a nest worth removing?

When people will disturb it. Penn State says nests near entrances, busy walkways and places where children play are likely to be disturbed sooner or later. A nest in a quiet corner of the yard may not be.

It also points to the benefits of leaving one: virtually all stinging insects are pollinators, and paper wasps, yellowjackets and hornets hunt caterpillars, flies and other pest insects. Most bees and wasps in Pennsylvania are native.

Does the time of year matter?

A great deal. Paper wasps, yellowjackets, hornets and bumble bees start new colonies in late spring or early summer, and the colonies die off over winter. Penn State's reading of that cycle:

• A nest found in fall will soon die naturally, so management may not be necessary.
• A small nest in May or June may be small enough to ignore, but could grow into a problem by August or September.
• Early is easier. Dealing with a nest while it is small is safer and easier than waiting.

A newly started nest with only a queen and no workers carries a low sting risk, Penn State says, and dealing with it often takes only a few minutes.

What are the risks of doing it yourself?

Stings, above all. Penn State says the biggest downside of removing a colony yourself is the risk of being stung, and that no precaution is completely sting-proof. It is direct about one group: if you know you are allergic to insect stings, you should not try to remove a colony yourself.

Other points it raises:

• Hidden nests are harder. Underground nests, which are usually yellowjackets, may show only as a small hole with insects flying in and out. Nests in wall voids and roof spaces need the inside entry found and dealt with before the outside one, or the colony can be pushed into the house.
• Insecticide labels set the protective equipment. Penn State says to read the label of any product for the minimum protective equipment it requires.
• Leftovers cause problems. A nest killed inside a wall can attract carpet beetles, and a very large one can rot and smell. Penn State suggests opening the void, removing the nest and repairing chewed insulation.

This guide does not describe how to treat a nest; Penn State's article does, at length, for people who choose to.

When does Penn State say to hire a professional?

It weighs cost and scheduling against the advantages, and says the many advantages of hiring a pest control service make the expense and the wait worthwhile. The technician takes the risk of being stung and brings the knowledge, tools and labor, and pest control companies carry liability insurance for any property damage during treatment.

A company applying insecticide to a nest at your home needs a Pennsylvania pesticide business license, and the person applying it must be certified or a registered technician, under the state's pesticide regulation. Penn State's choosing guide suggests asking to see the certification card and checking for the BU license number on the vehicle.

What if they are honey bees?

Then it is a different job. Penn State says honey bee colonies in structural cavities are a significant problem: they are often 10 to 100 times larger than yellowjacket or hornet colonies, and an old nest may hold hundreds of pounds of honey and wax and fill a wall. One option is a beekeeper willing to remove the colony, though few do this work because it takes both beekeeping and construction skills. Penn State says local, county or state beekeepers' associations may help you find one. Ask any company quoting honey bee work whether it will remove the comb and honey as well as the bees.

What does nest removal cost?

Penn State says stinging insect nest removals typically cost over $100, and that scheduling may mean a wait. Cost surveys give higher ranges: HomeGuide lists wasp removal at $300 to $700 and yellowjacket removal at $600 to $1,200, and puts bee removal at $125 to $1,000. HomeAdvisor lists bees at $150 to $500.

What should you do after a sting?

Penn State's first aid advice: remove a stinger promptly, wash the area with soap and water, and use a cold compress to limit swelling. It says to seek medical attention immediately if symptoms spread significantly from the sting, are intolerable, or cause difficulty breathing or swallowing.

Seasonal timing for other pests is in how often and when, and what a homeowner can safely handle is in DIY or hire.

Sources

1. Getting Rid of Paper Wasps, Yellowjackets, and Other Stinging Insects, Penn State Extension
2. How Much Does Pest Control Cost?, HomeGuide
3. How Much Does Pest Control Cost in 2026?, HomeAdvisor
4. 7 Pa. Code Chapter 128. Pesticides, Commonwealth of Pennsylvania (Pennsylvania Code)
5. Choosing a Qualified Pest Management or Lawn Care Company, Penn State Extension